System won't charge

[armas west]

I have a Next Step P regulator made in 1999 with the follow readings:
Test# Ignition Off Ignition On

3 0 9.49
4 0 0
5 12.53 12.45
6 4.92 5.44
7 0 0
9 12.53 12.46
10 0 0
11 .14 1.35

1,2,8,11 and 13 are not used.

The red led is blinking "bad temperature sensor" i.e. 6 seconds On and 6 Off.
The green light is 2 seconds On and 1 second off.

I had the Amptech 125E alternator checked to-day, and it is fine. Batteries replaced 3 weeks ago. Two banks of 2-6 volt batteries in parallel.

I see I can get a replacement temperature sensor from you on-line, but what do you think I really need?

Armas West

[Coulomb]

If the alternator field was connected when you made the measurements, then the regulator is probably bad. It may have been damaged when the batteries were swapped out.

You can always disconnect the wire on Pin 11, (T+), and the regulator should work, minus battery temperature compensation.

[armas west]

Thanks for the info.

Just to complete my observations, here are the "engine running" numbers;

Test# Value

3 11.0
4 0.0
5 12.67
6 5.4 to 12.5 (rapid fluctuation between these limits)
7 0.0
9 12.64
10 0.0
11 1.9

I pulled the T+ ,#11 wire off and the red light stays off, the green continues 2 sec. ON and 1 sec. OFF.

The batteries are fully charged from shore power, so would this account for the rapid random voltage fluctuation of the field connection?

As you suggested, I will take the boat out tomorrow and run with the temperature sensor, T+ disconnected to see if it starts to charge when the batteries start to discharge.
By the way, the sensor is bolted to the center post in a 2 battery bank of 6 Volt batteries. I believe this is where it has always been.

Armas West




11

[Coulomb]

The most effective place to mount it is on the most positive post.

[armas west]

I ran the boat with T+ disconnected. System did not charge.

Will you recommend what is a close direct replacement voltage regulator, and where to get one? I assume you don't make this model anymore...?

Armas West

[armas west]

I ran the boat with T+ disconnected. System did not charge.

Will you recommend what is a close direct replacement voltage regulator, and where to get one? I assume you don't make this model anymore...?

Armas West

[Coulomb]

The NS2 uses different terminals, but has the same wires, so it's an easy substitute. Price is $299.00. You can order it here: http://store.amplepower.com/page3.html

Your regulator may be repairable. We charge $175 to repair a Next Step Regulator.

If you want it repaired send it to:
Ample Power Company, LLC.
6315 Seaview Avenue, NW
Seattle, WA 98107

[armas west]

I have now Purchased a Next Step 2 and wired it in according to instructions including the 8 amp fuse in the Field circuit.

The boat has been on shore power so the batteries are charged up.

Observations are as follows:

Test Point Ingnition ON Ignition OFF Engine Running @ 800 RPM Engine Running at 1700 RPM

1 12.23 12.35 12,38 12.21
2 12.23 0.08 12.33 12.18
3 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
4 12.70 12.39 12.36 12.24
5 9.35 0.00 10.65 10.82
6 0.72 0.72 0.74 0.73
7 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
8 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

With engine off or key off, the red light was blinking 6 ON and 3 OFF. The green light was 3 ON and 3 OFF.

With engine running, red light was 6 ON and 6 OFF; the green light was 2 ON and 1 OFF.

I did not full Field the alternator, because I had it off at a alternator shop and they tested it and told me it was putting out the full 125 amps.
I have not attempted to adjust the Next Step 2.

Changing engine speed didn't change the voltmeter at the helm, but maybe this was because the batteries were up. The shore power was disconnected during the test. I did not shut off the Inverter during the test.

Your advice would be appreciated, as to the Test Lights showing Runaway voltage. Are these preset for 12 volts, or 24?

Armas West

[armas west]

I have now Purchased a Next Step 2 and wired it in according to instructions including the 8 amp fuse in the Field circuit.

The boat has been on shore power so the batteries are charged up.

Observations are as follows:

Test Point Ingnition ON Ignition OFF Engine Running @ 800 RPM Engine Running at 1700 RPM

1 12.23 12.35 12,38 12.21
2 12.23 0.08 12.33 12.18
3 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
4 12.70 12.39 12.36 12.24
5 9.35 0.00 10.65 10.82
6 0.72 0.72 0.74 0.73
7 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
8 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

With engine off or key off, the red light was blinking 6 ON and 3 OFF. The green light was 3 ON and 3 OFF.

With engine running, red light was 6 ON and 6 OFF; the green light was 2 ON and 1 OFF.

I did not full Field the alternator, because I had it off at a alternator shop and they tested it and told me it was putting out the full 125 amps.
I have not attempted to adjust the Next Step 2.

Changing engine speed didn't change the voltmeter at the helm, but maybe this was because the batteries were up. The shore power was disconnected during the test. I did not shut off the Inverter during the test.

Your advice would be appreciated, as to the Test Lights showing Runaway voltage. Are these preset for 12 volts, or 24?

Armas West

[Coulomb]

The regulator should be returned. Send your address to ruth@amplepower.com and we'll send a replacement.